I swam in the Pipeline Bodysurf Classic yesterday and had a dream come true... got to share the empty lineup with the King, Mr. Cunningham!!! The waves were pumping, I free fell into a couple barreling pits. I realized I was doing it all wrong after watching Mark effortlessly glide into the top of the roaring waves.
Bodysurfing is connectivity with the earth in a fine way, breathing with the undulations of the sea, forming the body to glide like our dolphin friends.
Thanks for the photo and encouragement to get out there hawaiilifeleane !!