#seeatiptimetuesday
The Heart of the Wave ~ ♥️ 🌊
Utilizing the waves energy helps us make the most of each wave we ride. Depending on the location of where we are surfing, waves vary from fast down the line point breaks, to quick dumpy beach breaks, or to some waves like this, which is a point break that has different tempos throughout it. It’s important to recognize the speed of the wave while we are on it, or else it’s very easy to get too far in front of the wave and lose our speed or fall off the back of the wave. I like to call the curl of the wave “the heart” , where the white water meets the green water. Placing ourself near the heart of the wave will give us the most opportunity to make speed and to do critical surfing. If you find yourself getting too far out on the shoulder of waves, this is when you need to start looking for cutbacks! If you find yourself stuck in the whitewater, pay attention to where you are taking off on the wave and position yourself closer to the shoulder of the wave than behind the breaking white water. Once you’ve figured out how to identify the heart of the wave while riding, then you’ll be able to direct your speed and power with different turns and moves. On this wave, it has a slow tempo to it, so in order to keep as much speed with the wave, I cutback a number of times to stay in the most critical part of the wave.
Leah wears our Madeline One Piece in Midnight.
Queen of stoke + words: @leahloves
Footage: @jack_colemang