2014 - We headed out pre-sunrise, and the swell was massive. Eight to twelve feet, with some sneaker sets. The first thing we see is a bodyboarder just take off on this huge, bowling-out, perfect wave and basically just get drilled into the reef; he was taken off to hospital. About five minutes later, another bodyboarder did exactly the same thing. At this point, the sun hadn’t even come up yet.
Madness from the 'Wave of Consequence' series @tedgrambeau
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